Lerwick, Shetland, Scotland, United Kingdom
Up Helly Aa
Billed as Europe's biggest fire festival: a thousand torches, a Viking longship, and a night-long party in the far north of Scotland.
The straight answer
Up Helly Aa takes place in Lerwick, Shetland, on the last Tuesday of January every year, climaxing that evening with a torchlit procession and the burning of a full-size Viking galley.
Up Helly Aa is the fire festival of Shetland, the islands far north of mainland Scotland, and its biggest version happens in the island capital, Lerwick, on the last Tuesday of January every year. By day, a squad of guizers in full Viking costume parades through the town. After dark, around a thousand men and women carrying flaming torches march behind a replica Viking longship, then throw their torches into it and burn it to the ground.
Despite the Viking costumes, the festival in its current form dates to the late 1800s, a Victorian reinvention of older Yule traditions that celebrates Shetland's Norse heritage. Shetland was part of Norway until the 15th century, and the islanders are proud of those roots.
It is a community event rather than a tourist show. The festival is organized and paid for by locals, the squads work on their costumes and performances for months, and the night that follows the burning is a series of private parties in halls across the town. Visitors are welcome to watch; getting into the parties takes tickets or connections.
The event, explained
The Guizer Jarl, the chief of the festival, leads the Jarl Squad in elaborate Viking costume through Lerwick during the day, visiting schools, a hospital, and care homes, while the Up Helly Aa Bill, a large board of satirical jokes about local life, goes on display at the Market Cross.
The evening procession is the headline: squads of guizers, each in their own costume, carrying torches through the darkened town behind the galley. When they reach the burning site, they circle the ship and throw their torches in, and the galley burns as the crowd sings the traditional songs.
After the burning, the squads tour the halls around town through the night, each performing a short act, often a comedy sketch or a dance, at every hall. The parties run until morning, and the next day is a public holiday in Lerwick for recovery.
In recent years, after long debate, the Lerwick festival has opened its squads to women and girls. Other Shetland communities hold their own smaller fire festivals through late winter.
How to play it right
- 01Book lodging and transport many months ahead. Lerwick has limited accommodation, and rooms for the festival week sell out quickly.
- 02Getting there: overnight ferries run from Aberdeen to Lerwick, and flights connect Sumburgh airport in the south of Shetland with Aberdeen, Edinburgh, and Glasgow. Winter weather regularly disrupts both; build in buffer days.
- 03The daytime parade and the evening procession and burning are free to watch in the streets. Evening hall tickets are limited and usually sold locally; ask your accommodation or check local listings well ahead.
- 04Dress for a cold, wet, windy North Atlantic winter: highs near 41F (5C), strong wind, and only about six to seven hours of daylight. Waterproof layers, a hat, and gloves are essential.
- 05Stand upwind of the burning site if you can; the heat and smoke are intense. Follow marshals' directions.
- 06Stay a few extra days to explore Shetland: sea cliffs, Iron Age brochs, and the chance of the northern lights on clear winter nights.
With kids in tow
- The daytime parade is very family-friendly, and local children take part in a junior version of the festival with its own galley.
- The main torchlit procession is dramatic but crowded and smoky near the burning site. Watch from farther back with young children.
- The hall parties run all night and are adult-oriented. Families usually enjoy the procession and head home after the burning.
Book your stay for Up Helly Aa.
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- Hotels for January
Hotels. Expedia
Hotels in Up Helly AaOpens a hotel search for Up Helly Aa in January, dates filled in. Book early for the best months: the good rooms go first.
- Rentals on Vrbo
Vacation rentals. Vrbo
Vacation rentals in Up Helly AaWhole homes, condos and villas. Usually the better deal for families and groups, with a kitchen and room to spread out.
- Tours and tickets
Tours and tickets. Expedia
Tours and tickets in Up Helly AaTimed-entry tickets, day trips and guided tours in Up Helly Aa for January. Popular slots sell out in the best months.
Up Helly Aa, quick answers
When is Up Helly Aa?
The last Tuesday of January every year in Lerwick, Shetland. The procession and galley burning happen that evening, and smaller fire festivals take place in other Shetland communities through late winter.
How do I get to Up Helly Aa?
Take the overnight ferry from Aberdeen to Lerwick, or fly into Sumburgh from Aberdeen, Edinburgh, or Glasgow. Winter weather can disrupt both, so allow buffer days.
Is Up Helly Aa free to watch?
Yes. The daytime parade and the evening procession and burning are free in the streets. Tickets for the evening hall parties are limited and sold locally.
What is the weather like in Shetland in January?
Cold, wet, and windy, with highs near 41F (5C) and only about six to seven hours of daylight. Dress for the North Atlantic in winter.
Can women take part in Up Helly Aa?
Yes. After long debate, the Lerwick festival has opened its squads to women and girls in recent years. Many of Shetland's other fire festivals already included them.
Also in January
Chinese New Year
China, plus Singapore, Hong Kong & Taipei
Late January or February, on the new moon that begins the lunar year; the date moves with the lunar calendar, and festivities run about 15 days to the Lantern Festival
Venice Carnival
Venice, Italy
Roughly two weeks ending on Shrove Tuesday, so usually within late January and February; the dates move with Easter
Rose Parade (Tournament of Roses)
Pasadena, California
New Year's Day morning, January 1, unless January 1 falls on a Sunday, in which case it moves to Monday, January 2
Sundance Film Festival
Boulder, Colorado (Park City, Utah through 2026)
About ten days in late January every year
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