France, Europe

Provence in December

Christmas markets, santon figurine fairs, and Provencal holiday traditions in the towns.

Quiet valueCool, highs near 50F (10C), mistral

Lavender field Valensole, Provence — ProvencePhoto: Laurent Virzi, CC BY-SA 3.0

The straight answer

December is a quiet, good-value month to visit Provence. Christmas markets, santon figurine fairs, and Provencal holiday traditions in the towns.

Weather: Cool, highs near 50F (10C), mistral
Crowds: 2 of 5
Prices: 2 of 5

What December is like in Provence

December is cool and often bright, with highs near 50F (10C) and the mistral blowing on some days. The towns glow with Christmas markets and santon figurine fairs, and Provencal holiday traditions are everywhere. Crowds are light and prices stay low, though many rural restaurants and guesthouses are closed.

December suits couples and families who love holiday markets, cozy city stays, and truffle dinners. It is not the month for warm weather, swimming, or the classic village trip, and the Luberon is very quiet. For that, aim for May, June, or September.

Make the most of December

What is especially good about Provence this month.

Santon fairs

Towns hold fairs selling santons, the small clay figures used in Provencal nativity scenes. They make a great keepsake.

Christmas markets

Aix, Avignon, and Marseille put on holiday markets with local crafts, sweets, and mulled wine.

Truffle season

Black truffle season is in full swing, with weekly markets in towns such as Richerenches and Carpentras.

What to pack for December

A warm coat for mistral days
A hat, scarf, and gloves for evening markets
Comfortable shoes for cobbled old towns
Extra room in your bag for santons and treats

Our timing tip

Visit in the first three weeks of December, when the markets are running and hotels are cheaper than around Christmas itself.

Book Provence for December.

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Hotels. Expedia
Hotels in Provence
Opens a hotel search for Provence in December, dates filled in. Book early for the best months: the good rooms go first.
Hotels for December
Vacation rentals. Vrbo
Vacation rentals in Provence
Whole homes, condos and villas. Usually the better deal for families and groups, with a kitchen and room to spread out.
Rentals on Vrbo
Tours and tickets. Expedia
Tours and tickets in Provence
Timed-entry tickets, day trips and guided tours in Provence for December. Popular slots sell out in the best months.
Tours and tickets

What's on in December

Black truffle season

Roughly late November to March

Truffle markets run in towns such as Richerenches and Carpentras through the winter.

Things to do in Provence

Full guide

Palais des Papes, Avignon

The largest Gothic palace in Europe. Go early in July, when the festival fills the city.

Official site ↗Tickets and tours →

Pont du Gard

The Roman aqueduct bridge. Swimming in the river below is a summer tradition; come early or at dusk.

Official site ↗Tickets and tours →

Luberon villages

Gordes, Roussillon's ochre cliffs, and Lourmarin. Visit the famous ones early in the morning and on their non-market days.

Tickets and tours →

Valensole lavender fields

Peak bloom is usually early to mid July. Stick to field edges and respect the farmers' crops.

Official site ↗Tickets and tours →

Arles

The Roman arena and theater, Van Gogh sites, and the summer photography festival.

Official site ↗Tickets and tours →

Calanques National Park

Limestone inlets between Marseille and Cassis. In summer, access can be restricted on high fire-risk days and some coves need reservations.

Official site ↗Tickets and tours →

Beat the crowds

Visit the most famous villages (Gordes, Roussillon) before 10am or in the early evening. Tour buses cluster from late morning to mid afternoon.
For lavender, go on weekdays and at sunrise. Weekend afternoons at the best-known fields are crowded.
Base yourself in a smaller village or a town like Saint-Remy or Apt instead of central Avignon during its July festival.
Pick June over July for lavender plus quieter roads: late June often has the first good color without the full holiday traffic.

Know before you go

Many village restaurants, guesthouses, and small hotels close from about November to March. Cities like Aix, Avignon, Arles, and Marseille stay fully open.
In summer, forest massifs and parts of the Calanques can close to visitors on high fire-risk days. Check the daily access status before you hike.
Weekly markets run all year in larger towns, but the summer versions are far bigger. Winter brings the special truffle markets.
Sunday and Monday closures are common for small shops and some restaurants, especially in villages outside summer.